8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
The rendezvous for this foray into the western-most outreaches of the British Isles was Totnes station at 11.30 on Saturday 21 July, and as I cast my eyes over the group of six 12-14 year old miscreants that I was, in theory at least, partly responsible for, a cold chill gripped my heart. Well, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but you must admit it makes an impressive opening sentence!
We squeezed our bikes into the guard’s van with the aid of a surprisingly friendly and helpful guard, and about twenty minutes and half a packed lunch later found our¬selves in Plymouth.
Taking some nasty major roads and even nastier major roundabouts through the town we reached the Torpoint ferry which took us, naturally enough, to Tor-point. From here we were soon able to say goodbye to nasty main roads before cycling through Antony and Portwrinkle, then following the coast road in the blazing sun to Downderry and then Seaton for a very welcome ice-cream stop.
Taking some fiddly little lanes, we reached a hamlet by the name of No-Man's Land, then rejoined the main road to Looe. We stopped here for a while to wander around the shops and stock up on such essentials as, in my case, sunglasses and a water-pistol - there's nothing like being armed when it comes to keeping control of pesky young cyclists, reasoned I!
A climb up to Pelynt, then a drop down to Bodinnick, brought us to the ferry to Fowey. Jamie had been feeling under the weather and lagging behind all day, but now came an uphill drag during which his speed decreased to a point only marginally greater than zero. Nonetheless, we fin¬ally made it and turned off along a track to Golant hostel where we arrived two minutes before the serving of an ex-cellent evening meal of Butterbean and Tomato Pie. Mike
Jones' tours just wouldn't be the same without the split second timing!
The evening was spent pursuing such mind-improving activities as pool and space-invaders.
(Andrew Billington)
Sunday 22 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 2: Golant to Boswinger YH
Sunny and warm
18 miles (▲ 520m ▼ 460m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Sunday dawned clear and bright and remained so all day! We initiated our day's programme of activities with a quick ride into Golant to look around. Mike was particularly keen to locate and investigate a recording studio that he knew of in the area, so he and I set out to locate it. We did, after many enquiries, and were shown around by four charming girls aged between about three and nine, so thanks very much to them.
Rejoining the others, we set off on our way along the main road to Par. As we passed through the town, a Sunday market caught our collective eye and we stopped and wandered around for about an hour, after which those with¬out water-pistols were in a minority. On the way out, Jamie's bike slipped from underneath him on the loose ground and he had to be patched up by Nurse Mike, but he bore his injuries very bravely.
Circumnavigating St. Austell, we reached the beach at Porthpean in time for lunch followed by water-pistol fights. A few miles further and we were in Mevagissey, where we stopped for about an hour, which passed pleasantly with the aid of massive whirly ice-creams, an aquarium and a plague of seagulls. From there, we continued to Portmellon, then after a steep climb out the going was easy for the last couple of miles to Boswinger hostel.
We found ourselves sharing a dormitory with a young cyclist who came from "Up North" - and had the accent to prove it. He had been touring with a friend but had left
said friend behind, taking the maps with him, when the friend had begun to annoy him by moaning all the time.
The friend failed to put in an appearance during the evening and was presumed by "Mega" (so christened by us on account of his using that superlative to describe almost everything) to have taken a train home. Mega’s real name turned out to be Andrew Merrick, and I may say that his refusal to first tell us his Christian name, on the grounds that it was embarrassing, upset me immensely!
Later on we took a walk down to a nearby beach, and the youngsters went swimming and played games with Mike's tennis ball. This was brought to an end by the successful conclusion of a game called "Lose the Tennis Ball" which unfortunately had a less successful, outcome.
(Andrew Billington)
Preparing to leave Golant youth hostel
View of the railway line from the level crossing in Golant, looking towards Fowey
Simon Warner and Steven Bowles at Mevagissey harbour
Monday 23 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 3: Boswinger to Coverack YH
Sunny and warm
33 miles (▲ 620m ▼ 670m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Monday was the day when I was to display my hitherto undiscovered prowess, or otherwise, as leader and route finder, and after the standard hostel breakfast of a vaguely sub-standard fry-up followed by cold cardboard toast we set off on our merry way.
The sun shone brightly, echoing our mood. After a brief look at the small and sleepy coastal village of Portholland, the first stop was Veryan, famed for its unusual round cottages which we stopped to admire in true grockle (or should I say emmet) fashion. Then we left the winding and undulating lanes to follow the A3078 to St. Just-in-Roseland, which boasted a church set in sub-tropical gardens.
We continued to St. Mawes, from where we took a ferry to Falmouth, during which journey we decided to consume our hostel packed lunches. This turned out to be a mistake. If you have ever sampled one of these culinary masterpieces you'll know that they invariably contain soggy white chocolate spread sandwiches, a chocolate biscuit and a packet of nasty yellowish things called "Martian Spaceships", or something like that, and are roughly equivalent nutritionally to the paper bag that they come in. This one was no exception, its only edible component being a rather wizened apple.
Reaching Falmouth, Mike took Jamie to the hospital for a professional dressing to his leg while the rest of us found out what the town had to offer in the way of decent food - not much as it turned out!
We found our way out of Falmouth and then Mawnan Smith by a road attractively canopied with trees. Less than a mile further on and we were at Glendurgan Gardens, a National Trust property which was our next scheduled stop. We all paid our slightly extortionate entrance fee, except for Martin and Duncan who claimed they couldn’t afford it but in reality, I suspect, were bored stiff at the prospect of looking around gardens. However the lady at the entrance took pity on them and let them in for nothing, doubtless to their deep dismay. She must have taken a fancy to us because her generosity extended to giving us a pound to buy us all an ice-cream. The fact that there was nowhere in the gardens to buy ice-cream had obviously escaped her, and we searched in vain until Michael remembered that confectionery is never sold on National Trust Properties!
After spending an enjoyable hour or so on the beach that adjoined the gardens it was time to make a move, so we did, and headed for the ferry which would take us across the Helford river. Unfortunately, in my enthusiasm, I missed the turning and led my dumb trusting flock about a mile past it, downhill at that, necessitating a gruelling climb back up. Things were made worse by the fact that time was getting on and the ferry would be shutting down imminently. We made it in time though and crossed the river in two groups because the boat was so small.
After the crossing, a small tearoom perched on a cliff overlooking the mouth of the river gave us a chance to relax after the anxiety of nearly missing the ferry. When our pulses had returned to normal, we carried our bikes up to the road and continued to Coverack hostel via four miles of wiggly lanes.
True to form, we arrived just as dinner was being served, and very excellent it was too; fish and chips with peas, lettuce, parsley and lemon. The hostel was populated almost exclusively by Trendy Young Things, presumably because the warden ran a windsurfing course, but apart from this was quite acceptable. During the night a violent thunderstorm blew Martin’s shorts and towel from the window ledge onto the roof, causing predictable hilarity in the morning.
(Andrew Billington)
Preparing to leave Boswinger youth hostel
Adam Nice at Portholland beach
One of the round houses at Veryan Green
11:55 St Just's church, St Just-in-Roseland, set in semi-tropical gardens
()
An oil rig in the estuary between St Mawes and Falmouth
Andy Billington secures the bikes while Martin, Steven and Duncan enjoy the ferry ride from St Mawes to Falmouth
Martin, Duncan and Andy waiting on the beach at Helford Passage for the ferry to Helford
The group on the beach at Helford Passage waiting for the ferry to Helford
Boarding the tiny Helford Passage ferry
Tuesday 24 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 4: Coverack to Lands End YH
Dry
38 miles (▲ 545m ▼ 500m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
The rain considerately ceased before we set off, so we remained dry as we followed the road to Helson, past Goonhilly Station with its impressive collection of huge satellite dishes pointing at the sky. Reaching Helston, we stopped for coffee while Duncan took advantage of the opportunity and had his hair cut.
Three miles further and we were at Porthleven in time for lunch. Mike and I gave our packed lunches a cursory examination before giving then away and heading for the nearest decent restaurant!
Hunger satisfied, we set off once more and joined an A-road at Ashton, which we stayed with for a few miles of flat fast riding, ending by St Michael’s Mount where an ice-cream stop seemed in order. Then on to Penzance, and out again as quickly as possible before Martin and Dunc headed for Lands End for a prearranged meeting with a friend while the rest of us took the coast road. After commiserating with a flock of avian invalids at Mousehole bird hospital we headed straight for the hostel as time was getting short.
Re-joining Martin and Duncan, who had failed to locate their friend, we soon covered the last few miles to Lands End hostel, where the warden kindly made extra chips for us on the grounds of our extreme hunger.
(Andrew Billington)
Fabulous sea views from Coverack youth hostel
Sea views from Coverack youth hostel
Goonhilly Downs Earth Station
Duncan, Martin and Andrew relax at Porthleven harbour
Wednesday 25 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 5: Lands End to Perranporth YH
Dry start, rain later
41 miles (▲ 755m ▼ 800m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Andrew Billington looking unimpressed with Lanyon Quoit, an ancient megalithic tomb off the road from Penzance to Morvah
Martin Burrows and Steven Bowles admire the fabulous coastal scenery from North Cliffs, between Gwithian and Portreath, after the first rain of the tour. Visible are Deadman's Cove and Navax Point
Breakfast next morning was certainly imaginative, whatever else one might say about it: baked beans, grated cheese and roast potatoes. This fortified, we set out to cover the day’s miles, in weather that seemed liable to turn nasty at the slightest provocation.
The first stop came early in the schedule, at Geevor tin mining museum, which gave us an impressive insight into the lives of tin miners of old. The second stop came hard on the heels of the first when Mike, Martin and I took a detour to see some ancient standing stones called Quoits. I must confess to not having been very impressed by them, having expected something really big and amazing.
The next stop was a refreshment break at Zennor, during which we all bought Wispa bars, a novelty at the time, and found them somewhat insubstantial. At St Ives we bought food for the evening and had lunch on the crowded beach, where we were watched with horrid fascination by the hordes of bright pink tourists wobbling in and out of the sea.
The main road around the coast took us though Hayle to Phillack where we hoped to see some sand dunes, but we couldn’t find them. At this point it began to rain and a mass evacuation of the beach began, leaving the place deserted save for eight reckless cyclists within five minutes. The aforementioned cyclists, having got sand all over their bicycles, soon decided that evacuation was possibly the best course of action and carried it out forthwith, leaving the mythical sand dunes behind.
We were running late, and so sped through the rain to Portreath, where we paused for breath and additional supplies. Then speedily onwards, still being rained upon, through Cambrose, Porthtowan and St Agnes, with the younger ones beginning to flag. But at last the sanctuary of Perranporth youth hostel appeared, and we bundled ourselves gratefully into it.
(Andrew Billington)
Thursday 26 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 6: Perranporth to Tintagel YH
Hot and sunny
37 miles (▲ 665m ▼ 640m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Next morning’s start at eleven was late even by our standards and left us with little time for stops during the day as we had a fair way to go. Saying goodbye to the coast we set off along narrow twisty lanes through tiny villages and hamlets, while the weather made up for yesterday’s tantrum by shining brightly on us.
We stopped briefly at Lappa Valley Railway, and reached St Columb Major in time for lunch, which we ate on a roadside bank just outside the town. Suitably refreshed, we blasted off up the A-road to Wadebridge, where a stop for tea was required to allow us to get out breath back. We chose the right tea shop to stop at, because the propietress generously filled our water bottles with lemon or orangeade free.
To save time we stuck to the main road until St Teath, then continued through Westdowns to Tintagel, where the youth hostel materialised at the end of a long pebbly track. Simon, who had been finding the pace a bit tough, phoned for his parents to come and fetch him, and I can’t say I blame him.
The hostel was perched on the edge of a cliff, and the view was amazing. To top it off, nature saw fit to provide a magnificent sunset that evening, and Michael and I spent almost the whole time perched on a cliff behind the hostel, soaking it in.
(Andrew Billington)
Andrew Billington enjoys the fabulous views to Shag Rock from Perranporth youth hostel at Droskyn Point
Preparing to leave Perranporth youth hostel
Jamie Spence admires what must be the best beach in Cornwall as we ride down to Perranporth from the hostel
Duncan Morley and Andrew Billington chat with some pigs on the way from Perranporth to Tintagel
A wonderful sunset beyond Tintagel Castle, as viewed from the Lower Courtyard on the mainland by Andy and Michael on their evening walk
St Materiana's Church, Tintagel, at sunset, taken by Andy and Michael on their evening walk back to the hostel
Friday 27 July 1984
08:00 - 23:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 7: Tintagel to Gidleigh YH
Hot and sunny
8 miles (▲ 800m ▼ 610m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Jamie Spence and Steven Bowles enjoy the fabulous views to Gull Rock from Tintagel youth hostel
Friday was another hot and sunny day, which left us all sunburnt by the evening. We had many miles to cover, and soon reached the main road to Launceston. Once in Launceston we went through the usual procedure of buying food for the evening meal and then settled down for lunch by a river, which afforded opportunities for feeding ducks and playing in trees which were eagerly grabbed (the opportunities I mean).
By popular demand we again stuck to the A-road which took us to Okehampton at an impressive pace. Having put many miles behind us we had time to spare. This was constructively spent first in a roadside museum, which we were able to nip in and out of for nothing due to the non-appearance of a proprietor, and then a very pleasant roadside café, where milk shakes and banana splits were downed in uncivilised quantities and at even less civilised rates. From then on it was easy going through the lanes to Gidleigh hostel.
As this was the last hostel of the tour it seemed like a good idea to give the water pistols a final airing, and epic battles took place during the evening.
(Andrew Billington)
Saturday 28 July 1984
08:00 - 18:00
Tour: Cornwall
Day 8: Gidleigh to Home
Hot and sunny
20 miles (▲ 440m ▼ 580m)
8 Participants:
Andrew Billington, Steven Bowles, Martin Burrows, Michael Jones, Duncan Morley, Adam Nice, Jamie Spence, Simon Warner
Our youngsters giving maximum concentration to their unusual hostel chore at Gidleigh youth hostel - shelling a box of peas!
This is what the team think of their pea-shelling chore at Gidleigh youth hostel!
And so, another tour came to an end. Next morning my juvenile charges, who during the week had changed in my mind from potential Little Horrors to unique individuals, were homeward bound, as was leader Mike. For me, however, the end of the tour was the start of something else, for I was back in Cornwall to Elephant Fayre, Britain’s foremost live music event.
And so, dear reader, a lesson: what appears to be the end may also be only the beginning, if you will only have faith and look to the future. Thus, do I finish as I started, by going totally over the top in order to achieve an impressive sentence.